Rodel St Clement's Church and Churchyard Isle of Harris, Western Isles (Outer Hebrides), Scotland, UK

Listed Building Description

Text courtesy of Historic England. © Crown Copyright, reprinted under the Open Government License.

Early 16th century church, the outstanding medieval ecclesiastical building in the Outer Isles, 1528 (dated) monument inside to the probable founder, Alasdair Crotach (Alexander MacLeod), is one of the most ambitious and richly-carved funerary works of the period in Scotland. Kirkyard contains series of family aisles and monuments. Also burial place of several of the MacLeod chiefs, and at least two poets, the better-known being Mairi Nighean Alasdair Ruaidh. CHURCH INTRODUCTION: Founded, it is said, by Alasdair Crotach builder also of some work at Dunvegan including the "Fairy Tower" (W D Simpson Guide to Dunvegan, p9). Late Gothic and influenced by work in contemporary Ireland and more obviously of slightly earlier work at Iona rather than that of contemporary Lowland Scotland - for the common cultural link between the Gaidhealtachd in Scotland and in Ireland was in the period still intact. Design is unique for its date in the West Highlands, being cruciform-plan, with square tower at west end where the ground/rock is anyway raised: conceivably not all of one continuous build for there are inconsistencies - eg the use of different freestones for the transept arches (though both have similar profile mouldings to their shafting) and a pre-existing chapel might have been incorporated - but much of these inconsistencies more probably point to the work having been ongoing for perhaps several seasons, perhaps also to reconstruction work necessary when repairs were carried out. Some exterior sculptural ornament, in the manner associated with Ireland, including female figure of the type known in Ireland as a "sheela na gig" and male counterpart. Repaired/restored in 1784 and again in 1787 (inscription panel within church) by Alexander MacLeod (who had in 1779 acquired Harris at a cost of ?15,000 from General Norman MacLeod of the Siol Tormod ie the ancient line of Harris MacLeods). The new owner was brother and successor to Norman MacLeod of Bernera and he had settled on the island in about 1782/3, but died in about 1790. Rodel was again restored in 1873 at the expense of the Countess of Dunmore (inscription panel over main entrance), lesser scheme of renovation done under the supervision of Alexander Ross of Inverness in 1880's. The extent of work done in the 1780's is uncertain. In 1786 Knox (op cit p 159) wrote "He [ie MacLeod] has raised, or rather repaired, a very handsome church, out of the ruins of an old monastery, called St Clements". Suggesting that Knox understood the building to have been quite ruinous prior to restoration. The report in the Old Statistical Account (pub 1794) relays a tradition that Rodel was an early foundation repaired by Alasdair Crotach, burned by the early Reformers: it then reports. "The walls... of this venerable pile remained almost entire: and were repaired in 1784 by the late patriotic Alexander MacLeod Esq of Harris. After the church was roofed and slated and the materials for furnishing it within laid up in it to a considerable value, it unfortunately took fire, at night, through the carelessness of the carpenters who had left a live coal in it among the timbers... it was soon after this accident roofed: and it is now, though left unfinished since the time of his death used as one of the principal places in the parish for divine service". The work by Ross is documented by him in a brief paper (see References below) - principally a re-roofing, cleaning of the walls and general clearing up. DESCRIPTION Tower is a 4-storeyed entrance on west above ground level because of sloping site: undivided stages excepting stepped cable moulding at mid-height; corbelled and crenellated parapet of Scots type (though repaired and conceivably modified), pyramidal roof rises from within. Sculptured panels (these are discussed in Inventory), particularly over the west door, but also placed central on each elevation with cable moulding stepped over. At 3rd tower storey, a doubled roll-moulding of Irish type at each angle terminated at 3rd/4th floor division by a projecting animal head on 3 of the 4 corners (the 4th presumably worn away); the detail picked up intermittently at top floor and on parapet but as a single roll-moulding and this inconsistency, combining moulded/unmoulded stones is difficult to explain. Body of church is a rectangular plan without architectural distinction between nave and chancel: narrower transepts (similar to one another in scale and design but not set directly opposing each other) reach only to below main eaves level, their roofs integrated with and subordinate to continuous main roof. Main entrance is at west end of north flank. Built of pinned rubble, roughly-coursed in areas: intermittent splayed base course (possibly an indication of pre-existing work re-used), eg at north flank of Nave: some of the freestone is black and of a type occurring locally [Steer and Bannerman p198] (conceivably imported; cf font from Borline, Skye, dated 1530 and made for the same MacLeod family and now in National Museum of Antiquities) - but not seen on lower parts of tower and on much of the walling, suggesting that black freestone was available in quantity at latter stages of building: used to polychrome effect on 3rd storey of tower at angles and on windows), and on the stepped cable moulding below: also used on the sanctuary south window and on the traceried east window which comprises a spoked wheel set above 3 lights with cusped heads. Simplified variant of eg the south choir-aisle east window at Iona Abbey (a replica is installed in Iona the original being at St Conon's Loch Awe); its carved label stops and arch-crown are in light-coloured ashlar, but the pattern is Irish in derivation (cf for example Kinawley Co Fermanagh). Also comparable with Iona are the small cusp-headed lancets used throughout built for the most part of light-coloured freestone imported (possibly from Carsaig in Mull, the quarry that provided the freestone at Iona). Remaining windows, eg those on south flank, flat-lintelled. Slate roofs of a pinkish colour, dating from 1873 as do the oak doors at main entrance and at tower latticed glazing skews and rainwater goods. Larger openings are pointed or flat-lintelled narrow lights either as noted above or else flat-lintelled and without freestone dressings. A single lancet on the east end of north wall has curious double-pointed head; lintel and sill of blocked lancet on main walling to west of north transept flat- headed window alongside above the splayed base course may be an insertion to judge by surrounding stonework patterns (which would accord with the suggested re-use of an earlier building). INTERIOR: Exposed bare rubble walls, openings flat-lintelled or arched above ingoes; timber arch-braced roof presumably dates from 1873 and rests on corbels of contemporary date: early corbels in sanctuary area. Floor laid with flagstones of uncertain date but again likely to date from 1873. There are two medieval mural monuments each a tomb recess on the south flank one each side of the south transept. Monument to Alasdair Crotach is dated 1528, though he lived until about 1547. Its design is often compared with that of the O'Cahan tomb, Dungiven, County Londonderry, of at least a generation earlier, but the similarity is little more than conceptual - an arched recess above a tomb chest on which rests an effigy and the formula was well-used elsewhere: Irish examples favoured the use of traceried heads which was not done at Rodel and certainly not for reasons of economy as testified by the wealth of sculptured oranment. The Rodel tomb is unusual in having a series of high-quality carved mural panels depicting Holy figures, scenes, images, etc including a stylised castle with stepped crenellations of Irish type, a hunting scene, a Highland galley, ornament both on the wall beneath the arch and on the alternate voussoir stones - the intermediate stones being narrow and black, giving a polychrome effect like that on parts of the tower. The gable-shaped hood-mould over is also black as is the effigy. Sculptural work has justifiably been described as ".....the masterpiece of medieval West Highland sculpture". (Companion to Gaelic Scotland, p 7). Main inscription: "hic loculus co(m)posuit/p(er) d(omi)n(u)m allexa(n)der filius vil(el)mi/ MacClod (omilno de du(n)began/anno d(omi)ni m ccccc xxviii". Translated: 'This tomb was prepared by Lord Alexander, son of Willelmus MacLeod, Lord of Dunvegan in the year of Our Lord 1528'. Names of saints represented on the arch stones are also inscribed (Steer and Bannerman, inscription 2). Alasdair Crotach was breaking with tradition, by choosing to be buried here rather than in Iona, where the previous chiefs of his clan had till then been buried. The second tomb-recess is anonymous, doubtless another MacLeod, but "....there can be little doubt that the person commemorated was William, son and successor to the Alexander MacLeod of Dunvegan commemorated... [above] (Steer and Bannerman, p98). Black freestone throughout: a round arch (as is the above monument). Moulded, topped centrally by a gablet, an effigy below (which in c.1780 was in the south transept - see view referred to in Nat Galls). A black band of masonry on the otherwise plain rubble back wall of the recess contains the following inscription: "hi[c es]t loculu[s co(m)p]osuit p(er)/d(omi)n(u) [m].../[a]nno d(omi)ni m [cccc]c xx[xi]x" Translated: "This is the tomb prepared by our Lord... in the year of Our Lord 1539" (Steer and Bannerman, inscription 3). (Square brackets represent illegible lettering, rounded brackets abbreviations used in the texts). Other carved stones lie within the church, including a third effigy (also in the south transept formerly), now in the nave north west corner) - possibly John MacLeod of Minginish (d.1557), cousin of Alasdair Crotach, who succeeded as chief on the death of the William whose (probable) tomb is noted above. (There is no guarantee that the correct effigy was replaced on the tomb). A series of late medieval West Highland carved stones is incorporated in the floor among the flagstones and a 1725 memorial. Also kept within the church is a wheel-headed cross. As noted above, the two transept arches are not identical: black freestone is used for the north transept, light-coloured stone opposite. Whilst the vertical profile mouldings used on each are similar, the arch profiles and profile mouldings are not, the south arch being steeper-sided: a blocked window immediately to its west (and not visible on the outside) also has black dressings. The south transept contains the burial place of the poetess Mairi Nighean Alasdair Ruaidh (c.1615-c1707) (Mary MacLeod), who was born at Rodel and connected with the MacLeod aristocracy. She is, traditionally, buried face downwards. (Carmichael Watson, pxix) the burial place of the hereditary standard bearers bearers of the MacLeod "Fairy Flag" is also reputedly within the church. A mural stair, entered from a pointed doorway near-centre in the church gable, gives access to the tower, whose ground floor level is several feet higher than that of the nave. An opening above, now blocked, formerly opened from the tower into the nave. A marble panel commemorates the 1787 restoration by Alexander MacLeod. KIRKYARD Contains a series of burial aisles mostly 18th century, others towards the north west/north are 19th century. Two aisles linked to one another at one corner are similar, ashlar, topped by low balustrades: the first (closest to kirkyard west wall) to the MacLeods, probably early 18th century, or in existence at least by 1738, the date of one recorded death on a marble side-panel - the centre panel is in a corniced and bolection-moulded frame. Its inscription much-worn; also memorial to Donald MacLeod of Berneray d.1738 aged 90 who had been out in 1745-6. Interior walls harled rubble, balusters diagonally-set. The second aisle is harled with ashlar dressings also 18th century (? c.1709) and contains 19th century (?replacement) panel to Sir Norman MacLeod of Berneray (1614-1709) who had fought at Worcester (in 1651, when the MacLeods were decimated fighting on the Royalist side to the extent that the MacLeods were excused military duty for a generation): also inscribed "a generous patron of Gaelic culture, closely associated with the bardess Mary MacLeod" (that part of the text is unlikely to date from c.1707). Balusters are mostly replacements, presumably installed when panel was made. Aisle of similar type at south end of kirkyard, commemorates MacDonald family. Plain enclosure to south east of church is of uncertain date. Also 19th century enclosures with cast-iron railings. Close to the east end of the north wall is the headstone of the bard and evangelist Iain Gobha na Hearadh (Iain or John Morison), born at Rodel [in 1790, according to his headstone, which was erected long after his death: date c.1796 suggested in the Companion to Gaelic Scotland, p204]; died 1852 at Leacklee. Rubble dyke encloses kirkyard and may at least in part - preserve medieval precinct boundary.

Listed Building Statement of Special Interest

Property in the care of Historic Environment Scotland. Whilst the portrayal on the monument of an Irish-type tower with stepped crenellations suggests its possible use on the tower, it may be that the craftsman/men responsible for the monument were not those responsible for the church. Alasdair Crotach is known in legend for entertaining King James V in 1536 to dinner on one of the 2 flat-topped mountains (the lower, and broader) close to Dunvegan and known as "MacLeod's Table".

Listed Building References

RCAHMS, INVENTORY OF THE OUTER HEBRIDES ETC, 1928, no 111, Steer and Bannerman, LATE MEDIEVAL MONUMENTAL SCULPTURE IN THE WEST HIGHLANDS, 1977, pp 78-80 and passim, inscriptions 2-3, plates 31-4; Alexander Ross in PSAS vol.XIX (1884-5) pp.118-132; MacGibbon and Ross. ECCLESIASTICAL ARCHITECTURE vol III, pp363-372: OLD STATISTICAL ACCOUNT, vol X, pp 377-379; J Knox, THE HIGHLANDS AND HEBRIDES IN 1786, p159. For Mairi Nighean Alasdair Ruadh see GAELIC SONGS OF MARY MACLEOD, ed and with introduction by J Carmichael Watson, 1965: both she and Iain Gobha are featured in the COMPANION TO GAELIC SCOTLAND, ed Derick S Thomson, 1983. https://www.historicenvironment.scot/visit-a-place/places/st-clements-church