Crystal Hotel Portland, Oregon

National Register of Historic Places Data

The Crystal Hotel has been listed on the National Register of Historic Places with the following information, which has been imported from the National Register database and/or the Nomination Form . Please note that not all available data may be shown here, minor errors and/or formatting may have occurred during transcription, and some information may have become outdated since listing.

National Register ID
09000706
Date Listed
September 9, 2009
Name
Hotel Alma
Other Names
Hotel Tait;Hotel Georgian;; Majestic Hotel
Part of
Downtown Portland, Oregon MPS (Multiple Property Submission)
Address
1201-1217 SW Stark St.
City/Town
Portland
County
Multnomah
State
Oregon
Category
building
Creators
Hanselman, Hans
Level of Sig.
local
Years of Sig.
1911
Areas of Sig.
COMMUNITY PLANNING AND DEVELOPMENT; COMMERCE

History

Text courtesy of the National Register of Historic Places, a program of the National Parks Service. Minor transcription errors or changes in formatting may have occurred; please see the Nomination Form PDF for official text. Some information may have become outdated since the property was nominated for the Register.

No event more clearly marked the transition of Portland, Oregon from a small, far-flung lumber city in the Pacific Northwest to a modern metropolis than the Lewis and Clark Exposition of 1905. It was a defining event that put Portland on the map, enticing both people and money to migrate to the city. Portland’s population grew by 96,000 in the five years following the fair, doubling the city’s 1900 population. Employment outpaced population growth as the marketplace, fueled by outside capital and locally invested timber wealth, raced to build the houses, offices, and enterprises needed to serve this population. With such high demand, real estate proved to be a particularly wise investment. Property values advanced 30% between 1905 and 1906, and 100% by 1910. Land values reached $5,000 per front foot in the heart of downtown, and all the while total rentable space grew from 900,000 square feet in 1900 to 2,000,000 in 1910.

This era was marked by the development of major landmarks, including dozens of modern skyscrapers such as the Wells Fargo Building, major department stores like Meier & Frank, grand hotels such as the Multnomah, and dramatic theater halls like the Heilig. Real estate investors, however, focused as much on smaller properties offering a mix of ground-floor retail and upper-floor hotel rooms. In the decade that followed the Expo, twenty-five of these buildings were constructed - all substantially similar with simple ground-floor retail spaces, simple entries, and small upper-floor rooms offering private, shared or common baths with no accommodation for on-site meals beyond the bar or restaurant that that might occupy the ground-floor retail spaces. A predominant number of these hotels were located in the area to the north and west of downtown where land was relatively cheaper compared to the downtown core and farther northwest upscale homes in the vicinity of 19th Avenue.

In light of the economic climate, it is not surprising that in 1910 a self-made businessman who was not a real estate developer, acquired land with the intent to develop a hotel with ground-floor retail. This was the vision ofthen 42- year old Henry J. Ottenheimer who acquired the trapezoidal-shaped parcel northwest of downtown. The oddly shaped block was created by the differences in platting between the City of Portland and Couch’s Addition, which in turn were created by the bend in the Willamette River roughly at Burnside. Until just after the turn of the century. Stark Street ended at 12” Avenue and the block to the west was a super-block that ran from Washington to Burnside. By 1908, however. Stark Street was extended one block to 13” Avenue. This was accomplished by demolishing a number of one-story wood structures. This demolition left a single one-story wood dwelling that faced 12 framed by Burnside and Stark. The west end ofthe block then tapered to a point at Stark and Burnside, and ultimately was acquired by Ottenheimer.

Ottenheimer was a successful businessman. He was born in San Francisco, California, in November 1868. After graduating from public high school, he was employed by Lillinthal & Sons of New York as a hop buyer; his territory was California and Oregon. In 1894, he located to Aurora, Oregon and bought a hop ranch outside Salem, Oregon. In 1906, Ottenheimer sold his ranch and moved to Portland where he associated with the Standard Box Company. Shortly after, he joined with his brother, Sigmund, to establish the Jones Cash Store, a successful general merchandising mail order business.^ The Hotel Alma, as it was known upon opening, is Ottenheimer’s only known real estate venture, though among his projects he was president and owner of Ottenheimer Realty and Investment Company. Later in life, Ottenheimer sold the Jones Cash Store to Montgomery Ward, and acquired the McBride Woolen Mills. In 1929, following months of ill health, Ottenheimer took his own life.

The hotel architect was Hans Hanselman. Hanselman is a relatively little known architect who in his day produced solid hotel designs in the city in a narrow timeframe. Perhaps his grandest work is the Mallory Hotel (National Register-listed; 729 SW 15th Avenue), completed in 1912. Hanselman’s other known works consist of two other hotels, both designed in 1911: the New Houston Hotel (now known as the Sally McCracken Apartments at 230 NW Sixth Avenue) and the Hoyt Hotel (now demolished). It is odd for an architect seemingly unknown in a city to secure four major commissions within one year, although It is also equally odd that with such a successful year, such an architect would relocate. Yet, by 1913, based on city directories, Hanselman had vanished from Portland. Efforts at locating Hanselman either before or after in California, Washington state or elsewhere in the country have been unsuccessful to date.

Planning for the hotel commenced in spring 1911. Hanselman provided both plans and specifications to the city in July 1911. The estimated cost was $50,000. The design featured a hotel entry off 12*^ Avenue with retail spaces along Stark Street and Burnside. These storefronts were a bay deep, and the four westernmost extended from street face to street face and include a single set of stairs to an open mezzanine. The second through fourth floors were identical with nineteen rooms per floor off a central triangular corridor. At the center was the elevator, stairs, toilets and closets. The rooms were a mix that included both private and communal baths.

The small 57-room hotel, similar to those surrounding, did not target a specific clientele, nor advertise, although its clientele were typically single men, most likely traveling salesmen with calls to the surrounding automobile businesses and perhaps overflow from the more active larger hotels nearby such as the Clyde and Nortonia. The basement featured a large 3,700 square foot leasable space at the south, and storage areas at the north. While plans initially offered a store in each bay of the ground floor, from the start it appears these retail spaces were consolidated into two primary tenants; J. H. Myers Heating, and Portland Glove Works, both with entrances off Stark.

By 1917, the Hotel Alma had been renamed the Hotel Georgian, and then the Hotel Tait in 1920. In 1926, Ottenheimer sold the property to Jennings & Co. Over the next several years, the property changed hands from Jennings to Hibernia to Progressive to New England Mutual. In 1930, the hotel was renamed Majestic and remained so until 1973.

The building took on a particular local notoriety in the years following World War II when the ground floor was adapted into a single restaurant space. In 1949, Joseph Starvaggi opened the Club Mecca, a short-lived enterprise that closed in 1952 for nonpayment of taxes. This business was followed by the Desert Room. As described by Phil Stanford in his book, Portland Confidential, about sex, crime and corruption in Portland, the Desert Room was:

... one of the most fascinating nightclubs Portland has ever seen. On any night of the week, you could expect to find a good portion of the Portland underworld hanging out... The pimps and madams all made the scene every night, and there was always a contingent of safecrackers, who in those days were considered the princes of the rackets.

The nightclub was run by Nathan Zusman, the self-proclaimed “Mark of Stark Street,” who figured prominently in the McClellan Senate Racketeering subcommittee hearings held in Portland in 1957.^ Following that testimony, Portland City Council pushed to close the Desert Room, but Zusman successfully maneuvered to retain his liquor license. However, two years later in 1959, following additional complaints, Zusman’s license for the Desert Room was revoked. New ownership re-opened a somewhat sanitized operation, and the club continued operations until the late 1960s when it became the Pied Piper, and then the Red Garter.

In 1973, the Hotel Majestic became the “Club Baths” and both the hotel and restaurant became openly homosexual enterprises. This publicly-acknowledged use was part of a major transformation in the city. Prior, Portland -like most cities across the United States - actively persecuted homosexuals with the active enforcement of laws that banned such behavior. A riot at the Stonewall Inn in New York City in June 1969 asserted gay opposition to this persecution and directly led to the modern gay rights movement. A proliferation of gay activism across the country immediately followed in the years after Stonewall. In Portland, one manifestation was the rise of gay-oriented businesses, such as the “Club Baths,” and the area immediately surrounding became an entertainment district known as “the gay triangle.” Over the next several years, gay rights became more consolidated such that by the 10th anniversary of the Stonewall Riots in 1979, Portland organized the city’s first Gay Pride March and saw the formation of groups like the Portland Gay Men’s Chorus. Although the “Club Baths” became the “Continental Hotel and Baths" in 1983 and then finally “Club Portland,” the building remained a gay bathhouse and club from the 1970s until it closed in 2007. In 2008, the building was sold and vacated. Current ownership intends to return the hotel to its original use, redeveloping the property using state and federal historic preservation tax credits.

Description

Text courtesy of the National Register of Historic Places, a program of the National Parks Service. Minor transcription errors or changes in formatting may have occurred; please see the Nomination Form PDF for official text. Some information may have become outdated since the property was nominated for the Register.

SUMMARY

The Hotel Alma is located at 1201-17 SW Stark Street in downtown, Portland. Specifically, it is located on the east 100 feet north of Stark Street on Block 107 of Couch’s Addition to the City of Portland, Multnomah County, Oregon. The hotel was built in 1911, designed by architect Hans Hanselman for Henry J. Ottenheimer.

SETTING AND SITE

The building is located on the south side of Burnside between the Pearl District and downtown Portland. Burnside is the primary east-west surface street that runs from the West Hills across downtown to the east side and beyond. At this point, the street has two traffic lanes in each direction. With heavy traffic loads, it forms a distinctive barrier between downtown on the south from the Pearl District on the north. The Hotel Alma faces east onto 12th Avenue, which is one-way north. It also faces south onto Stark Street, which is one-way east. Both 12th Avenue and Stark Street may be considered non-arterial downtown surface streets.

In the late 1910s and 1920s, the area was considered part of “Auto Row” and remnants of that heritage help characterize the streetscape today, particularly north of Burnside. Most often, these buildings are one- and two-story unreinforced masonry structures on quarter-block parcels. The area south of Burnside is also characterized by buildings of a similar vintage, scale, and materials to that of the Alma -low-rise (3-5 story) unreinforced masonry buildings with ground floor retail. Almost entirely, these buildings are associated with the construction boom that followed the Lewis and Clark Exposition in 1905. At the same time, the immediate area is the scene of considerable new construction with substantially larger heights, modern design and materials.

Directly to the south of the Hotel Alma, across Stark Street, is the 1911 Whitney-Gray Hotel (National Register listed; 409 SW 12th Avenue), and adjacent 1913 Clayton Hotel (411 SW 12th). Both are four-story hotels adapted to affordable housing. Adjacent to these at the west and occupying most of the remaining block is a new 22-story mixed use tower under construction. Further to the west is the1914 Crystal Ballroom (National Register-listed; 1332 W. Burnside). To the east of the Hotel Alma are the 1909 Kent Hotel (310 SW 12th Avenue) and the 1911 Blackstone Hotel (1103-1121 SW Stark Street), they are respectively a 3-story and 4-story hotel adapted for affordable housing.

Across Burnside to the north are the Brewery Blocks. This five-block, mixed-use development includes approximately 220,000 square feet of urban retail, 400,000 square feet of office space, and 1,200 underground parking spaces. As part of this development and across Burnside to the north is the one-time 1929 Smith Chevrolet building that now houses Whole Foods and Portland Energy Solutions. Also part of the Brewery Blocks, directly northeast, are the Weinhard Brew House and a 10-story office building with ground floor retail.

The block that contains the Hotel Alma is at the pinnacle of a pie-shaped wedge in the street grid created by Burnside and Stark Streets as these streets run west from the river and converge at 13'^ Avenue. That wedge reflects the transition of the downtown street grid, which runs slightly northeast-southwest, to the street grid of Couch’s Addition, which runs a truer north-south; both grids run parallel to the Willamette River which bends northwest at Burnside Bridge.

Located a the peak of the Stark/Burnside wedge, Block 170 is triangular in shape, framed by Stark Street on the south and Burnside on the north intersecting at an angle, and by 12th Avenue crossing both Stark Street and Burnside at the east to form the base. Even accommodating the triangular shape, the block is tiny compared to the 40,000 square foot Portland standard of 200 feet by 200 feet. Rather, Block 170 is only 4,475 square-feet, running 148.28 feet east and west, and at the base, 60.86 feet north and south at the base. The small block is dominated by the Hotel Alma; the only other building on the block is the adjacent two-story 1917 Flat Iron Building (National Register-listed; 1223-25 SW Stark Street), a former tire store which sits on a 466 square foot parcel.

The hotel is located on a 4,009 square foot trapezoidal parcel. On the north, it runs 100 feet; on the east it runs approximately 61 feet; on the south it runs approximately 116 feet and on the west it runs approximately 20 feet. The parcel is flat and the Alma is built to the lot line with no character-defining landscape features.

EXTERIOR DESCRIPTION

The Hotel Alma is a four-story unreinforced masonry building with full basement with cast iron columns and steel girders to carry the brick walls above the first floor.

The building is a four-story, horizontally-articulated Streetcar-era Commercial-style building with a flat parapet roof. In form, the hotel exhibits a largely triangular footprint with three facades - 12th Avenue at the east. Stark Street on the south and Burnside on the north - all similar in design and materials both originally and for the most part today. The fourth facade is a utilitarian party wall which is exposed above the adjacent 2-story structure.

Facade materials on the three street fronts are consistent, with a buff-colored finish brick in a running bond with natural gray mortar. As originally built, the design at the ground level featured a traditional tripartite storefront with plate glass in wood-frame over a paneled-wood bulkhead surmounted by a multi-light transom. The storefront then was distinguished either with a recessed full-glass wood door or flush plate-glass at the center. Today, some remnants of these storefronts remain, but as often, the openings have been infilled with either painted concrete block or covered with wood and covered with stucco. Above the ground floor is a classically detailed painted sheet metal belt course. This design in painted sheet metal is repeated at the cornice. Upper floor windows are consistent, one-over-one, double-hung, wood-sash in wood-frame with painted brick sills. On the three street-facing building faces, the outside bays at the second and third floors feature paneled tripartite painted bay windows with one window per face. The fourth floor then features a brick panel between each window. At the fourth floor window head is a brick string course; between the stringcourse and the cornice are painted cast-stone medallions located above each brick panel. Above the cornice is a low-rise parapet.

As designed, the hotel entry was located at the second-most northern bay of the 12th Avenue facade, distinguished by a sheet metal marquee. That entry remains today. Other entrances today include a storefront entry in the center bay of the Stark Street facade, a corner entry at Stark and 12th framed by dog-tooth brick pilasters, and a storefront entry in the second westernmost bay of the Burnside facade.

Despite years of neglect and abuse, the building’s exterior retains a good degree of integrity. In form, scale, and massing, the building is intact with no additions. The storefront bay structure has largely been retained hidden behind concrete block, plywood and stucco. Generally windows on the upper floor also are intact though many have been covered with plywood and some have broken glazing.

INTERIOR DESCRIPTION

The Hotel Alma is four stories with a full basement. The building is organized around a stairwell and elevator core located at the center east which ran the full height up but not to the basement. Access to the basement is provided by three stairs: one adjacent the stairwell/elevator core, one at the southeast corner, and one at the west. As built, the basement featured utilitarian rentable space at the south, a hotel office at the east, and storage at the north. The basement extended under the sidewalk along Stark. Finishes were utilitarian with exposed brick walls, concrete floor, and simple wood partitions. Its most recent use was a bar/club for a single tenant. The basement today is essentially an open un-partitioned space. The utilitarian finishes are extant but generally have been painted. As designed, the first floor was dominated by retail spaces. When built, each bay along the south and north facades was intended to be a separate lease space that ran through from Burnside to Stark Street. Shortly after construction, the retail spaces were consolidated into two and then one single tenant. This single ground-floor tenant use has remained constant over the years, though the space has been substantially modified. Today, the space essentially has an open floor plan without partitions, except for a small kitchen and toilet.

The hotel entry was and is off 12*^ Avenue at the east. As designed, the hotel doors led to a hallway/vestibule. At the entry, just to the south of the hall was a small hotel office with a stairwell to the basement. Continuing forward west, guests would then come to an elevator/stair core that would lead to the upper floors. Finishes were traditional with wood floors, plaster walls and plaster ceilings. The spaces were largely utilitarian with limited details as chair rails. Today, a painted gypsum wall has been constructed along the south of the entry and the basement stair removed. The elevator/stair core remains intact as do the finishes.

Floors 2 through 4 were built to be essentially identical, with approximately 19 rooms arranged at the perimeter of the building. Access to the upper floors was either via the elevator or the full height stair which was enclosed at each floor landing by a fire door. Both means of access opened directly to an east-west, single-loaded corridor providing access to rooms along the north. There was no traditional elevator core. At the far east, the corridor turned south to provide access to rooms on the east and at the southeast corner. At the west, the corridor turned approximately 315 degrees to the southeast to provide access to rooms along the south center. At the center were service rooms and shared baths. Corridor finishes and trim were traditional, with wood floors, painted plaster walls and ceiling. Trim included painted wood baseboard and chair rail. Room doors were wood paneled with transoms and classical surround. This configuration remains today as do, generally, the corridor finishes.

As built, guest rooms varied in size and shape to accommodate the irregular hallways but averaged about 12 feet deep and 12 feet across. Larger rooms were those located at the corners and featured bay windows with French doors. These larger rooms also offered a private bath; the remainder of the rooms only had access to common baths. Room finishes were traditional and consistent with wood floors with painted plaster walls and ceilings. Trim was painted wood and included baseboard and picture rail. Doors were wood paneled with transoms. Doors and windows featured a classical painted wood surround. As with the corridors, these floors, in general, are intact in form, detail and finish. Walls have been repainted, floors have modern carpeting, in select areas the baseboard or picture rail have been removed. Most of the ceilings have been dropped with acoustical tile units. Areas on the second floor at the west were adapted and consolidated into a communal spa/bath space, and select rooms were subdivided with wood framing and gypsum board to create short-term cubicles. Baths typically have been modernized over time with new fixtures.

ALTERATIONS AND ADDITIONS

As noted, the building carries a good and typical degree of integrity for a structure of its use and stature. The exterior of the building is largely intact but has been neglected over the years. Ground-floor storefronts have been covered and in some instances modified though working within the original bay structure. In general terms, the storefront with bulkhead, transom, and glazing have been covered with stucco, while the upper floor windows with frame, sash, and glazing have been covered with plywood.

The interior is largely intact in form, materials and finishes. Most changes have been additive, with materials covering features rather than the features being replaced. The primary change to the building was the consolidation of ground-floor retail spaces into a single restaurant user in the 1940s. On the upper floors, the two rooms at the second floor west have been consolidated into a bath/spa. Walls have been repainted. Floors have been carpeted and re-carpeted. And generally room ceilings have been covered with acoustical dropped tile ceilings tiles.